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Jack Martin

Colourist operating from California who focuses on silver hair. Among his clientele are Hollywood stars and renowned personalities.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

My top pick is a microfibre towel, or even a gentle tee to remove moisture from your strands. It's often overlooked how much damage a typical terrycloth towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really reduce frizz and breakage. Another inexpensive must-have is a large-gap comb, to use during washing. It safeguards your strands while removing knots and helps preserve the strength of the strands, especially after lightening.

Which investment truly pays off?

A high-quality styling iron – made with advanced materials, with adjustable temperature options. Silver and light-coloured hair can become discolored or suffer heat stress without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

At-home lightening. Social media makes it look easy, but the reality is it’s one of the biggest gambles you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with striped effects that are extremely difficult to fix. I would also avoid keratin or permanent straightening treatments on color-treated or grey hair. These formulations are often excessively strong for delicate locks and can cause chronic issues or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their hair type or colour. A number of people misuse colour-correcting purple shampoo until their blonde or grey strands looks lifeless and muted. A few overdo on protein-rich treatments and end up with rigid, fragile strands. Another significant problem is using hot tools sans safeguard. When applying styling appliances without a defensive spray or cream, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see yellowing, dryness and breakage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Externally, minoxidil remains a top choice. I also recommend scalp formulas with active ingredients to boost blood flow and promote root strength. Using a scalp detox shampoo weekly helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Oral aids like specialized formulas have also shown notable improvements. They work internally to benefit externally by balancing body chemistry, stress and dietary insufficiencies.

In cases requiring advanced options, blood-derived therapies – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be beneficial. However, I consistently recommend getting a professional diagnosis beforehand. Thinning can be linked to medical conditions, and it’s important to determine the origin rather than chasing surface-level fixes.

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Anabel Kingsley

Scalp and Hair Scientist and head of a renowned clinic centers and lines targeting thinning.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I get my hair cut every 10 to 12 weeks, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have color touches every two months.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are truly impressive if you have see-through sections. They attach using static to your strands, and it comes in a assortment of tones, making it virtually undetectable. I used it myself in the postpartum period when I had significant shedding – and also now while experiencing some marked thinning after having a bad infection previously. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. For excessive daily hair shedding, AKA telogen effluvium (TE), buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the most effective improvements. In my opinion, minoxidil compounded with other hair-supportive actives – such as balancing elements, inhibitors and/or calming components – works best.

What should you always skip?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of a low-dose minoxidil with rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Also, high-dose biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

Which error is most frequent?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to rid your scalp of old oils, dead skin cells, sweat and environmental pollution. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the reverse is correct – notably in cases of dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. When sebum remains on the skin, they decompose and cause irritation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For genetic thinning in women, start with minoxidil. It's backed by strong research and tends to show optimal results when mixed with supporting compounds. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you prefer not to use it or are unable, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Increased hair loss often stems from an underlying issue. Occasionally, the reason is temporary – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus